Seam for shoe-soles.



G. A. L 5L A DUBYNE, SEAM FOR SHOE SOLES. APPLIUATION FILED 1L-m21, w11.

.Patented Sept. 2, 1913 Application filed September l, 1911.

Speel cnton of Let tern lfillent.

lloflenlell Slept. 23, i913.

Serial No.' 847.263.

T0 all fr0/wm i6' may conce/n Be it known that we, Gennaio il. filoni' :in and STEPHEN A.. lionrxn, citizens oil the United States, and re'siding :ilu Si. Louis, in the Slate oil lllieeouri, here invcnled certain new and useful linln'ovemenls in Hemos :for Shoe `Soles, ol. which the :following is n specification.

This .invenlion rclales lo shoes und more particularly lo :i neem for fastening the outsole on the Shoe.

lo the Inunui'nclnre ol? shoes, he SoleA .is ordinarily olhnlfhed'bv :L Stitched senin willi :i sowing nmchine. n n. Mcllloy :shoe the stitches pass lhrough ille outsole, upper and insole, sind someiinles through e lop or slip sole which is placed between the outsole und upper. Various methods have been pro oecd for making o metallic senin in o. ll ola); oboe, bnl; without Success, since the Seein heretofore used rendered the Sole and the entire shoe stiff ond not` flexible like n seived shoe. lherelore although :i metallic senin has superior Wearing qunlities, ond requires :for its production. less complicated nmchin ery end less skilled operador-s than n Sewell seam, it has not been possible heretofore so n'ovide iin ellioient metallic nenni which will cave ille sole flexible and nl. the suine time possess good wearing qunliies.

@ne of the objeclie of this invenlion therefore'is to provide n. metallic .no-11n 'lor no toohing the outsole of n shoe which will possess all the desirable churncleristics and qualities of Aboth :ieewed Seem and u metall1c seam, and which can be Inode with simple nnichinery and by unskilled operators.

`When n metallic senin is Vneed in lllcfley shoes, the fasteners of the seam are driven throi'lgh the outsole and insole and clenched bock into the insole. This leaves; 'the clenched poinls on lille inside face of the insole, and as the outsole is Worn down, causing the heads ol the fasteners to weer oil, the lend i ency is lo cause lghe clenched pointe to work ,Y

up through the insole ond thus lea-ve objectionable projections on the ineide foce of` the insole. Fnrl'fhermore n loose anchorage of the clenched point will cause the fnstener to project o short distance beyond lhe oulsole thereby marring poliohcd floors.

Another object of this invention therefore is 'to provide n metallic. seam 4for shoes in which lhe clenched points ol ille fasteners nro so anchored that these fz'lstenei's cannot ni'ovo in directions either toward 'the f'ool or lownrd the Outsole.

The in'venlirm willbe fully described in connection with thc accompanying drawings in which: l i

ligurc l is a side elevation of a McKay shoe, perl5 being broken away to Show the novel nenni in section, Fig. 2 .is a cross section of the shoe shown in Fig. 1, and Fig. 3 is u seclion along the senin, Fig. l is o cross .".ollon lhrouggli another .form of Shoe in which the channel isdispense'd with, and 5 is n Section along the senin, Fig. l is n 'detail of one ol the lf'zisloners and un enlarged view of .ils poinl', Fig. 7 is :i View of the fastener in string form, Fig. 8 is a section of the Seam 'at the shank of hc shoe shown iii-Fig. l, Fig. 9 isn section of the senno illustrating its construction und opere.- lion, und Fig.- 10 is on enlarged section of the seem showing the @instruction of the clenched point.

Referring lo lhe drawings, S desiguales the Shoe, l0 thonmwr, 1l they ineolc7 l2 the iep or slip solo, and lI-l the outsole. The faetener ll provided with :1 laterally exlenrling` well dolne'd :ind non-clenohing head ,l5 distinguished *from an inturned hookohzlperl or clenched hond, the hond tapering .inwardly lo the shrink of the fastener as shown nl. 1G.

The lnsleww-fin. preferably of the string nail type, a string;f T being shown in Fi 7. 'lho point l? oi lhe fastener ie turner, or deflected slightly lo make im abrupt bond :is shown in Fig. 6. This is accomplished in the process of cutting the preceding ifosliener Afrom che slring as lully described in our oopendingg application, Serial No. 647,261, lllod of even dote herewith. In

whatever nimmer this is accomplished, ,the

mined direction, making the uncut edge ZJ` the outer or convex edge of the clenched point. Y

ln the construction of the seam the fasteners are inserted through the layers comprising` the sole so that the heads will lie at the 'outer face of the outsole and so that i tersunk.

vas

these lieads Will extend in the direction of the sealn as shown in Figs. 3 and'. Where a channel is used these heads lie in the chan` nel 19 and are then covered by. turning down the channel flap 20, but where no channel is used, the heads'lie substantially flush with the outer face of the outsole as shown in Figs. 4 and 5 or are slightly coun- The points 17 are clenched and turned back into the insole, and the construction of the point and the fastener' itself is such, as described above, and the clenching anvil is so constructed, that the points as clenched and turned back will extend in .the saine direction and in the direction of the seam.` In thecompleted seam-therefore the heads as well as the points will extend inthe samedirection and in the direction of the seam. At the shank of the shoe where the sole is thinner than at 'the fore part, the points will be clenched more as shown in Fig. 6, and it is therefore not necessary to use two sizes of fasteners for the'y fore part and shank respectively. i

lu referringr to Fig. l0 it will be noted that the point of the nail is clenched back into the insole. ln the foru'iation of the cleuch the deflected point will be turned toward the shank ofthe fastener. Moreover when the defiected point of the nail strikes the anvil it will itself be bent laterally so that when it turns back into the insole it will curl toward the shank. This will give the clenched point thev effect of fish hook anchorage, the laterally deflected point actingl as a barb to prevent the clenched point from working` upwardly above the upper face of the insole. `'lhe nail is thus support- 'cd in the sole against movement either upwardly or downwardly. The nail will therefore wear uniformly with the sole and will not project beyond the face of the outsole even if the nail head wears off. The bcveled nail' head does however assist materially to maintain the firm grip of the seam.

Referring now to 9, o represents the outside face of the outsole and 'i' the inside face of the insole il shoe sole mustbe capable of being flexed inwardly and must therefore be llexil'ile when bent in that direc- 'tibn lt need not' however necessarily be very flexible in the other direction, 21e.,

when flexed outwardly. ln bending or flexing the united soles inwardly the fibers at the inside face i of the insole `will be placed unde-r coi'nprcssion, while the fibers at the outer face Q of the outsole will be placed. under tension. lfractically in a laminated structure like the combined insole, upper, tap sole and out-sole, the elongation of the outside fibers is greater than the compression of the inside fibers. In the complete sole att-ached by our novel seam'the fibers in the outsole are as free to elongate as if the fastener We1e""not present, since neither the heads nor the Shanks of the fasteners will restrain any such movement, asis the ...case-With staple fasteners and like. prong fasteners which bind a part of the material between the legs of the fasteners and restrict free elongation. At the face of the insole are located the clenched points of the fasg5 teners, but these points will not retard the free -movement of the fibers. As vstated above the movement4 of the bers at the in-A sole is one of compression. Now since the points arev all clenched in the same direction and in the direction of the seam, the movement of the fibers over one another is not retarded by their presence, but these rounded clenchedends turn and roll in the leather and thus permit free'inward flexing of the 95 sole.- Since the. heads and the clenched points entend irrethe saine direction in the seam, one Will'not interfere with the other in restricting thevmovement of the fibers when the sole is flexed.V lt will thus be seen that in view of the fact that the heads are .located in the outsole and the clenched points in the insole, and in view of the fact that the clenched points as well as the-heads extend in the direction of the seam, the re- .105 sultant seam will beexceedingly flexible the required direction, t'. c., when flexed inwardly as is the ease when the shoe is worn.

lt will thus be seen that the invention aocoinplishes its objects. A seam is produced which will be practically as flexible as asewcd seam, but will possess better wearing qualities, and this seam can be made in sim ple machines compared with the McKay sewingrr machine, and can be made by unskilled operators. The clenched points are turned back into the insole so that the inside face of the insole will be left perfect-ly smooth, since the projecting point itself is buried in the leather, leaving only a round- 12o ed part exposed on the face of the insole, lhe fish hook anchorage will moreover prevent the clenched points fromy workingup above the face vof the insole. The sock .sole usually required in McKay shoes may thereforebe dispensed with. The fasteners may be counter-sunk in theoutsole, and the holes can be closed in the.'jleveling and scouring' operations, sol that the outsole will be left smooth. The channel and its accompany?7 130 ing channeling operation can therefore be omitted, thus resulting in a saving of cost of n ianil facture. v

Having thus described .the invention what is claimed is:

l. A shoe having an outsole and an insole, and a metallic fastener seam for attaching said outsole comprising fasteners passing through the outsole and insole and clenched back into the insole, the clenched points of said fasteners having their ends deflected toward the shanlcs thereof.4

2. A shoe having an outsole and an insole, and a metallic fastener seam for attaching said outsole comprising fasteners passing through the outsole and insole and clenchedy hack into the insole in the same direction and in the direction of and along the seam, the clenched points of said fasteners having .their ends deflected toward "lthe Shanks thereof. A

3. A shoe having an insole and an outsole,

and a metallic fastener seam for attaching said outsole comprising fasteners having well defined beveled non-clenehing heads, the fasteners extending through the outsole and insole, with the heads in the outsole and the points of said fasteners clenched back into the insole, the clenched points of said fasteners having their ends deflected toward the Shanks thereof.'

Intestiinony whereof we affix our signatures in nresence of two witnesses.

GEORGE A. DOBYNE. v STEPHEN A. DOBYNE. Witnesses:

J. V. MANNILNG, J. l-l. BRUNINGAL` 

